Like any big city, Paris has no shortage of gift shops and they are all stocked with very similar merchandise. Eiffel tower key chains, pens that look like baguettes, and hoodies are all easy to find. And let’s not forget the biggest tell-tale sign you are a tourist; wearing a beret! Parisians do not walk around in berets. New York Yankees hats, that’s a different story.
Heck, I’ve even been “that guy”, getting my son a T shirt with Mona Lisa “dabbing” a few years ago. A good laugh for an 11-year-old who will quickly outgrow it but definitely not a memento of a trip to last a lifetime. During our family spring break trip last year we knew we wanted a lasting memory and there was really only one option – getting our portraits drawn in Montmarte at the Place du Terte.
In the 18th arrondissement of Paris, Montmarte still maintains that quaint-village feeling with its twisting cobble-stone streets and cafes while providing sweeping panoramic views down to central Paris from its high vantage point, capped by the gleaming Sacre Coeur basilica. And sure, there are a plethora of tourist trap restaurants, but walking the neighborhood does still feel like you are stepping back in time.
Place du Terte is the artist square and is highly regulated. To earn a spot, a 1 square meter space marked by brass numbers on the ground, is quite the process and can take up to 10 years! In other words, the artists there have paid their dues and know what they are doing. It was really fun to walk around and see their different styles from caricatures to watercolor paintings to our favorite, charcoal drawings.
After talking to a few artists, we found two we liked a lot so for the sake of time we had one of them do each of our kids individually and the other do my wife and I together. I resisted a little at first. It is quite a unique experience having not only the artist looking at your face for 30-plus minutes while you have no idea what the drawing will look like, but you also have a constant stream of people walking by, taking pictures, and reacting to what they are seeing. At the beginning I was pretty uncomfortable, but after a while I settled in and really enjoyed the process. Having to hold still for so long helped me tap into my other senses. Hearing some accordion music nearby and smelling the coffee of the cafe behind me – just breathing in the city was a great change of pace from the fast-paced sight-seeing we had been doing.
Overall, we were extremely happy with the quality of the work and for 50 Euro per person it made for a great souvenir we can enjoy for many years into the future. We highly recommend this unique experience!
Here are some practicalities if you are planning to get your portrait done in Montmarte:
There is never really a low season in Paris and especially when the weather is nice there can be quite a wait for some artists. I would recommend arriving early in the day, by 10:00am to avoid a long wait. Or, arrange a time with your chosen artist based on their queue and come back later. There is plenty to do in the area so go walk through Sacre Coeur, admire the panorama view or have a nice lunch while you are waiting.
You will want to have some way to protect your portrait that day and on your flight home. You could bring a cardboard tube with you or buy one at the souvenir shop on the square.
Prices vary by artist and style. There are caricature artists who are quick and much cheaper up to color paintings for over 100 Euro. We thought 50 Euro per person was a fair price for the quality so we did not try to haggle, but I am sure some of the artists will negotiate. Definitely plan to pay with cash and confirm the price before you get started.
To get there: take the metro line 12 to the Abbesses station and walk up the stairs (or take the elevator) from the deepest metro station in Paris, make a quick stop to see the Wall of Love, then take a 5 minute walk up to Place du Terte.
TL;DR: As a visitor in Paris, I found the best souvenir to be a hand-drawn portrait from the artists at Place du Terte in Montmartre. This charming area offers a break from the typical tourist gifts and provides a unique experience. The artists, who have worked hard for their spots, offer various styles of portraits. My family and I had our portraits drawn, and despite the initial discomfort of being watched by passersby, it turned out to be a delightful experience that allowed us to soak in the Parisian atmosphere. For 50 Euro per person, we received quality portraits that will serve as lasting memories.
